Усим привет, есть прикольная статейка по полосатым варежкам, не знаю как выложить на всеобщий просмотр, весит 2,5 метра.
варежки
Сообщений 1 страница 17 из 17
Поделиться22007-12-11 14:36:58
выложи на файлообменник в архивчике... на slil.ru, например
Поделиться32007-12-11 14:49:44
Откуда дровишки?
Поделиться42007-12-11 15:21:35
Это которая на финском?
Поделиться52007-12-11 15:42:43
щас усе буде вроде на финском, есть еще по носкам, но на английском
Поделиться62007-12-11 15:47:31
http://slil.ru/25220418
Вот и ссылочка, пользуйтесь, файл будет доступен в течении месяца.
Поделиться72007-12-11 16:01:45
Классные варежки! Что-то я в финском не силён совсем. Помимо дат ХХ века нашёл только 930–975. Это её так датируют что ли?
Поделиться82007-12-12 10:14:26
Так, нужно теперь срочно искать толмача способного глаголить по-фински
Поделиться92007-12-12 11:01:19
Это женские варежки из Эура (могильники Луистри).
10 век.
А что про них вас интересует конкретно?
из каких ниток и какой вязкой?
если подождете недельку - перетолмачу краткое резюме.
Поделиться102007-12-12 14:11:25
Подождем, куда ж деваться-то
Поделиться112007-12-12 15:51:10
Резюме.
На могильнике Луистари В округе Эура на западном побережье Финляндии было обнаружено женское захоронение с богатым ювелирным содержимым и серией текстильных фрагментов. Датировка 1025 - 1050 основывалась на анализе подвесок (монет?) ожерелья. Текстильные фрагменты 56 погребения были тщательно исследованы в 1990 году, и на основе этих данных был реконструирован (Лехтосало Хиландер) костюм, как один из вариантов (образцов, типов) древнего финнского костюма, но фрагменты изготовленные в технике наалбиндинг не были включены в реконструкцию Л.Хиландер, 6 образцов, выполненых в этой технике находились под бронзовыми ножнами и частично под поясом на талии, базируясь на этих данных исследователи атрибутировали эти фрагменты как варежки.
Описание.
Красные и желтые нити были z крутки и свиты в s направлении, общая толщина нити - 2 миллиметра. Синяя нить была туго спрядена в s направлении, одиночная, тонина ее 1 миллиметр.
ну и так далее по тексту )))) отсюда
The sewing is made using two blues aside, unplied. (Vajanto, p. 31) There is 1,5 centimeter of red yarn between the yellow and blue lines; Mrs Vajanto supposes that to be a beginning of a thumb. There is only a small amount of it left, so it is impossible to be sure if the rest of the thumb has been one-color-red or lined with yellow and red. (Vajanto, p.34)
The hand part, until thumb, is made using lines of yellow and red Z-spun S-plied yarns, the same way which the wool yarn sold in stores nowadays is. Mrs Krista Vajanto has investigated them and found out that the loop line height was 1.2 cm and there were 5 loops per centimeter. (Telephone conversation in 8.2.2003). The lines are attached together using two loops from the previous line (F2). She says that it is most likely that the method of looping was using two loops in the thumb, being in Egon Hansen's language: UUOO/UUOOO (NESAT III). The thumb is red and the arm is made from two blue unplied S-spun yarns together. The blue arm and the red thumb to be attached to previous line differently from the hand part: probably using only one loop from the previous line (F1) or B1+F1. (Email consultation from Krista Vajanto on 10.1.2003).
Red and yellow yarns I use here are hand-dyed by Krista Vajanto. Mrs Vajanto was not allowed to send any of the nålebinding pieces, which are stored in the cellar of National Museum of Finland, to York to be color-analyzed, so there is no 30th century proof for this gravefind to these colors. She thinks, that the colors of the yarns are tannins from barks of alder and willow, but she used the red from madder (Rubia tinctoria L.) instead. Maybe spiced with a punch of Parmelia saxatilis which together could perform a typical red color used in the costumes of Eura area (Vajanto, p.49), the yellow from some nature plant (many plants in finnish nature produce yellow). (Here Mrs Vajanto has used heather (Calluna vulgaris)) and the blue from import indigo (Indigofera tinctoria) (call, 8.2.2002). I have heard about new color analyses from Jaana Riikonen who investigated the cemetery of Kaarina, Kirkkomäki (symposium 2.2.2002). She sent some red textile pieces to York to be analysed with a new system. The result was that the red was from the plant which grows on the stones (Parmalia saxatilis L.), not madder which is thought to be the most common source of red color in the Viking Age.
S-spun blues are a leftover from a special order for weawing the male viking finnish cloak, the model in the grave 308 in the Luistari cemetery, Eura in westcoat Finland, the same cemetery where this woman's grave was located. The thickness of the yarns I have checked with Krista Vajanto; she thinks that the thickness and the way of spinning and plying them is alike the ones in the grave.
The result was interesting: the mittens have three colors and also there are two different attaching-methods used in the one mitten; also different yarns used in one work. The structure used in arm is interesting: because attached from only one loop from previous line the 'knit' result is very stretching, which suits well to the armpart of the mitten.
Поделиться122007-12-17 12:16:34
Алеся! СПАСИБО! так вовремя, ты даже себе не представляешь!
Поделиться132007-12-17 22:16:31
Привет интересующимся.
Если можно, выскажу свою точку зрения, буду неправа - приму конструктивную критику.
Так вот. Рассматривая данный научный труд /а сий пдф можно так назвать/ уже довольно долго, и никак не решаясь изваять это великолепие /за сподвигание на то огромный респект Настёне/, я уяснила следующее:
1. kelt по-фински - белый /он же некрашеная шерсть, аналог немецкому Wollweiβ/, pun - красный, sininen - синий
2. исходя из таблицы погребений /на стр. 31-32/ в Эуре было всего 3 фрагмента - KМ 18000:1702, КМ 18000:1700, КМ18000:1696, остальное, на мой взгляд - для сравнения и агалогии как и в любой научной работе. расположение останков варежек, о которых идет речь - на стр. 26
3. толщина нитей со всеми прелестями кручения в среднем 1,8-2 мм белая и красная, синяя 1-1,3 мм
4. вязка равномерная, судя по всему, не смотря на вопрос о том, куда при вязке продевается игла /F1-F2/ во фрагменте КМ18000:1702, - версия не только моя, но и автора самой копии.
Поделиться142007-12-18 08:38:50
кому надо онлайн словарь финский - вот оно.
http://www.ilmainensanakirja.fi/trans?Q2=&Q=желтый&P=52
Поделиться152007-12-18 08:54:06
Еще про финские варежки из этого же труда, но из других регионов:
На инглише описаны в статье "Viking and Medieval Nålebinding Mitten Reconstructions
Based on archaeological finds from Finland"
автор - Satu Hovi
варежки с вышивкой из Tuukkala (приблизительно13 век) и процесс их производства
From the Tuukkala cemetery at Mikkeli there were found from male grave, dated to 1200-1300 AD, a thick mitten piece (KM 9770:4) nålebinded from thick s-spun Z-plied yarn of white or any light colored. The thickness of its yarn is 1,4-2,4 millimeter. It was made two loops on the thumb, in Hansen's language UUOO/UUOOO. From the previous line was taken two loops. (Vajanto, p. 27)
I had some yarn bought from Estonia left; it it a bit coarse and tight. I put it in aftercolor liquid of madder, the yarn was so oily the color did not touch, but in to this nålebinding piece, which is supposed to be light color, it suits perfectly. Krista Vajanto has mentioned to me, that nowadays it is difficult or even unpossible to see whether one was white or any light colored one thousand years ago.
There is a big leftover piece from mitten handback (supposed-to-be). There are some traces from one color embroidery. The yarn used in it was s-spun, thickness 0,8-1 millimeter. The embroidery was made with loopstich and crosstich. It was green, blue or brown by color. (Vajanto, p. 27) From the photos taken by Krista Vajanto from the piece stored in the cellar of Finnish National Museum in Helsinki those leftover yarns are seen easily. Also Tyyni Vahter has made a drawing in a small size of the embroidery 50 years ago, when there probably were more yarn visible than nowadays.
Using information from both sources I made a drawing of the leftover embroidery and made some sketches to fit the picture to a handback of a male's mitten. From my sketches I chose the one which pleased me most. I had two main thoughts where to start sketching. First was to look after Viking symbols. Lady Bertrade Deslipins (pseud.), who has a talent to give new ideas over things, suggester the tree of life, which would fit well to mittens packed with died person to the grave. My idea was to search after Byzantian patterned silks and find the forms there: if an ancient lady saw some expensive silks on the market and liked the pattern, she went home and redraw it as well as she could remember to an embroidery on a mitten.
Прорисовка варежек Satu Hovi
фото реконструкции Satu Hovi
Вторые варежки 13 века из женского погребения из Тууккола
Tuukkala mitten 2
From the Tuukkala cemetery in Mikkeli there are piece of nålebinding, too (KM 9969:14). The grave was dated to 13th century, it was a female grave. This mitten is made from s-spun unplied yarn, thickness around 1,3-1,5 millimeters, color white or light, maybe yellow. The knitting method of it was complicated; it was sewn using four loops in a thumb. In Hansen's language it means UUUOO/UUOOOO. From the previous line it was taken two loops. The mitten was felted before emboidered the armend. The mitten has two-color, probably blue and red, embroidery in the armend of the mitten. Yarns are z-spun, thickness 0,4-0,7 millimeters. They look sharp and shiny like being made yeasterday. (Vajanto, p. 27 and meeting 17.4.2003)
Варежки из Humikkala
From Masku in the cemetery of Humikkala, the grave 30, female grave from the half of the 11th century, the nålebinding find (NM 8656 H 30) of mitten made from thin white (or light) Z-spun unplied yarn, which was made using two yarns together. The looping method is probably UUOO/UUOOO. The yarns were about 0,6 mm thin, together about 1,1-1,5 millimeter. (Vajanto, p.27) Similarly two yarns were used aside when sewing the mitten based to the finds from the cemetery of Yliskylä in Perniö there were found from female grave number 6 a piece of mitten (KM 2912:95) made from white, z-spun unplied yarn. Two yarns were used together when sewn. The method was likely two loops on the thumb (Vajanto, p.27). The grave was dated to the beginning of 12th century (Tomanterä, p.118). According to Mrs Krista Vajanto included picture in the map on plate 2 should be in natural size (meeting, 8.2.2003).
Both of these pieces are very small, about 2 square centimeters, and my workis based on those pieces.
I have made my mittens from yarn I bought from Pirtin kehräämö, 180 TEX x 1, natural white. I used two yarns as a one. The same yarn was recommended when weawing the ancient costume of Eura apron, then colored (Euran puvun työohjeet).
Другие находки варежек в Финляндии
Another find from Köyliö, cemetery of Vanhakartano, female grave 28, dated to the middle of the 11th century the found nålebinding (KM 8723:315) was made from white Z-spun S-plied yarn and made in a typical Finnish way with two or more loops in the thumb (Tomanterä, p.118). Also in Köyliö, cemetery of Köyliönsaari one grave was dated to female 11th century. The nålebinding in it (KM 723:308) was made of white z-spun s-plied yarn, made with two loops in the thumb. (Vajanto, p.24 and 27)
From Kirkkomäki in Kaarina, female grave from the half of the 11th century the nålebinding find (KM 12687) is too small to be identified, being less than 1 squaremeters (Tomanterä, p.118). It was z-spun s-plied and made using two loops in a thumb, in Hansens method UUOO/UUOOO.(Vajanto, p.28) The pieces found from Rikala in Halikko, male grave Fa, dated to the 12th century, (KM 12841:29), which was made with white Z-spun S-plied yarn made in the tecnique with two or more loops in the thumb (Tomanterä, p. 119), in Hansens language UUOO/UUOOO
From the same cemetery in Rikala in Halikko was found another piece of nålebinding on site (KM 12690:475.It is reddish brown, probably felted from both sides. (Vajanto, p.28) The structure is not visible, but horizontal lines can be seen, which are typical for nålebinding (Tomanterä, p.118). The are also other nålebinding finds from Finland (Tomanterä, p.118, Krista Vajanto, 8.2.2003), but unidentified and/or unpublished.
Поделиться162007-12-18 21:19:38
Алеся! у меня исторически-рукодельнический экстаз! это нечто!!!
ой девочки, дайте сессию сдать, а то уже руки чешутся за все похвататься! по мере изготовления сих прелестей обещаю делиться фотками!
Поделиться172008-02-17 22:22:14
Вот еще перчаточки из Латвии. Интересные... и ближе к нам.